How to Fix a Flat Tire
The one roadside repair everyone needs, in eleven steps — plus the three mistakes that cause a second puncture within a mile.
This is the one repair every cyclist needs. It takes about ten minutes once you have done it twice, and the difference between knowing it and not is the difference between a short stop and a long walk.
Practice it once at home before you need it in the rain. That single dry run is worth more than reading this page twice.
What you need with you
- A spare inner tube in the correct size for your tires — the size is printed on the tire sidewall.
- Two or three tire levers. You cannot get a tire off with fingers alone.
- A pump or CO2 inflator.
About $35 total. Keep it in a saddle bag permanently so it stops being a decision you can get wrong.
The eleven steps
- Get off the road. Completely off. Everything else can wait until you are somewhere safe with space to work.
- Shift to the smallest rear sprocket before removing a rear wheel. It moves the chain out of the way and makes refitting far easier.
- Release the brake if needed and open the quick-release or thru-axle. Take the wheel off.
- Let out any remaining air and push the tire bead into the center channel of the rim all the way round. The rim is deeper in the middle, and this slack is what makes the tire come off easily. Skipping this is why people struggle.
- Hook one lever under the bead and clip it to a spoke. Insert the second lever a few inches away and slide it around to free one side of the tire. Leave the other side on the rim.
- Pull the old tube out, starting away from the valve and removing the valve last.
- Find the cause. The step everyone skips. Run a finger slowly around the inside of the tire — carefully, because whatever caused it may still be in there. Also check the rim tape covering the spoke holes. If you can match the hole in the tube to its position on the tire, you know exactly where to look.
- Put just enough air in the new tube to give it shape. A completely flat tube twists and gets pinched; an over-inflated one will not fit.
- Fit the valve through the rim hole first, straight rather than at an angle, then feed the rest of the tube inside the tire all the way round.
- Work the tire bead back on with your thumbs, starting at the valve and working both directions. Keep pushing the bead into the center channel as you go. The last section is the hardest — avoid levers here if you possibly can, because levering is how the new tube gets pinched.
- Check, then inflate. Push the valve up into the tire and pull it back down to make sure the tube is not trapped under the bead. Work round both sides checking no tube is showing. Then inflate to your usual pressure.
The three mistakes that cause a second flat
1. Not finding what caused it
If a thorn is still embedded in the tire, it punctures the new tube within a mile. This is far and away the most common reason for a repeat, and step seven exists solely to prevent it.
2. Pinching the new tube
Trapping the tube under the bead while fitting the tire gives you a flat as soon as you inflate. Prevented by putting a little air in the tube first, and by using thumbs rather than levers on the final section.
3. Riding away at too low a pressure
Especially after using a mini pump, which takes a lot of strokes and tempts you to stop early. Under-inflation is the leading cause of pinch flats. Re-inflate properly with a floor pump when you get home — and note that CO2 leaks out of a tube faster than air does, so a CO2-inflated tire will be soft by the next morning.
If you have run out of spare tubes
Two field repairs worth knowing:
A tire boot. If the tire itself has a cut large enough for the tube to bulge through, no tube will survive. Put something firm between the tube and the cut — a folded energy bar wrapper or a banknote both work — to bridge the hole. It is a get-home fix, not a repair, and the tire needs replacing.
A patch. Roughen the area, apply glue, wait until it is tacky rather than wet, then press the patch on firmly. The waiting is the part people rush and it is the part that makes it hold.
How to get fewer punctures
- Run correct pressure. The single biggest factor, and free.
- Buy tires with sidewall protection. The Maxxis Rambler on our tire page is the one that publishes a named protection layer.
- Replace tires when the tread is thin. Repeated punctures in a tire that used to be reliable is the tire telling you it is finished.
- Avoid the gutter on roads, where glass and debris collect.
Questions people actually ask
What do I need to fix a flat tire on a bike?
A spare inner tube in the right size, two or three tire levers, and a pump or CO2 inflator. That is about $35 total and it lives permanently in a saddle bag so you cannot forget it. A patch kit is a useful backup for a second puncture but is slower than simply swapping the tube.
How do I find what caused the puncture?
Run a finger carefully around the inside of the tire — slowly, because a thorn or glass shard will still be embedded. Match the hole in the tube to the position on the tire to know where to look. Skipping this is the single most common reason people puncture again within a mile.
Which way round does the inner tube go?
It does not matter which way the tube faces, but the valve must go through the rim hole straight rather than at an angle. A valve pulled sideways will tear away from the tube under pressure, which ruins a brand new tube immediately.
Why did I get a second flat straight after fixing the first?
Almost always one of three things: you did not find and remove what caused the first puncture, you pinched the new tube under the tire bead while fitting it, or you rode away at too low a pressure. All three are avoidable and all three are covered in the steps on this page.
Should I use tire levers to put the tire back on?
Avoid it if you possibly can. Levering the last section on is exactly how the new tube gets pinched against the rim, which causes an immediate puncture. Let air out, work the bead into the center channel of the rim, and use your thumbs. Only lever as a last resort, very carefully.
Can I patch a tube instead of replacing it?
Yes, and it works well as a backup. Replacing the tube is faster and warmer by the roadside though, so most riders swap the tube, take the punctured one home, and patch it there at leisure. That way you always leave with a working spare.
Sources
Specifications come from the manufacturer or the retailer listing, dated. Where a figure is not published, we say so rather than estimating it.
- Schwalbe — Tire sizes and the ETRTO designation — How the 40-622 style ETRTO number maps to '700 x 40c' (accessed July 23, 2026)
- WTB — Frequently asked questions — WTB's own tire pressure guidance for high-volume gravel tires (accessed July 23, 2026)
- Continental — Tire and rim combinations, ETRTO standards — Which tire widths are approved for which internal rim widths (accessed July 23, 2026)
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